Macedonian Folk Music in Bulgaria?!?

Geographic Macedonia

Historically the homeland of Alexander the Great, Macedon was a ancient kingdom that became a geographic region over time. When the Ottoman Empire fell, the the preceding power vacuum caused the political national groups of Serbia, Bulgaria and Greece to fight over the spoils. The Balkan Wars thus ensued and everyone ended up hating each other.

Macedonia, the word, is a time bomb waiting to happen. And that has happened, more than once. Over the past 100 years, four countries have been simultanenously claiming their Macedonian heritage and the Macedonian name much in the the way that Italians would claim their Roman heritage. The heritage is there . . . but there isn't exactly a clear definition of who is from the ancient Macedonian kingdom. Like most things in the Balkans, you get many nation states claiming a common heritage and making it an issue of national pride who is really (for instance) "Macedonian".

When the dust settled, Serbia had gained the lion's share of the region by making it a republic in its ill-conceived federation of states. Bulgaria lost a large portion of the ethnically Bulgarian regions and was left with the Pirin Mountains. Greece claimed the large southern part with the largest city Thessaloníki--the very same city that birthed the founder of the modern Turkish state-Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. Again we have the wonderful soft contradictions permeating the Balkan culture.

What the heck does FYROM Mean?

About 15 years ago, some of you might have noticed that a new country popped up in the Balkans called FYROM and you probably paused for a second to remark on its awkwardness. I bet even some of you tried to pronounce it (hand raised) -- f i r o m ? It actually stands for Former Yugoslavia Republic of Macedonian, which was the official name of the country when it was recognized in 1993 by the United Nations. Why would any budding nation choose to A) Pick an incredibly awkward acronym that stupid Americans would think is the actual name of the country, B) mention the country the declared independence from in their nation's name (Former English Colony United States of America, FECUSOA)? Answer: Well, someone had already taken that name . . . actually two countries, both Bulgaria and Greece.

The largest geographical region in Greece is called Macedonia and I'm sure you could imagine the confusion and outrage of the Greeks that their newly formed neighbor to the north was called the same name as their own territorial claim to Macedonian linage. This outrage caused Macedonia (now we are talking about the political state) to be initially called FYROM within the international community.

Greek Macedonia

Bulgaria also lays claim to name Macedonia to describe its southwest region encompassing the Pirin Mountains. This is seen more as a description of a cultural and territorial region than as a politically recognized region.

Pirin Macedonia

So, one has to create a fine but important line between the political Macedonia and the cultural Macedonia. There are parts of traditional Macedonian culture sprinkled throughout the northern part of Greece, southwest Bulgaria, Serbia, Kosovo and Macedonia.

Bulgarian or Macedonian Folk Songs?

When a Bulgarian from the southwestern Bulgaria (Macedonian region) celebrates a national holiday, birthday or festival, he (usually not she . . .) starts drinking rakia--grape brandy that is akin to moonshine--and sings the traditional folk songs that were taught to him as young child. But in this region of Bulgaria, what are those folk songs . . . ? They're old Macedonian songs from before Macedonia and Bulgaria where divided from the Balkan Wars.

When browsing the online chatter, Macedonians are indignant that Bulgarians sing Macedonian folk songs. Those songs represent a nationalism that is being attacked by other countries claiming those songs as part of their cultural ethos. Bulgarians are, for the most part, dismissive of Macedonia and its claims of difference--almost as if they were a the prodigal son that joined Serbia and will one day return. The conversation almost always ends with "Oh, they are Bulgarians; they speak Bulgarian with an accent".

So which are they, Bulgarian folks songs or Macedonian folk songs? Neither. They are folk songs sung from the geographic region of Macedonia in both Macedonia and Bulgaria. (How about that for running a fine line . . . )

This weekend, I will be attending the Pirin Sings (Пирин Пее) in the Pirin Mountains and I hope to gather a better picture of the traditional folk music played there. Pirin Sings (Pirin Pee or Пирин Пее) is a folklore festival held every two years on the first weekend of August where thousands gather in the mountain meadows for singing, dancing, drinking and eating. What's not like? Its a recommended hidden jewel of Bulgaria for intentional tourists.

I'll post examples of Macedonian music after the weekend, but for now, here's a famous Bulgarian Macedonian Folk Song that is sung in both Macedonia and Bulgaria.




Tangentially Referenced:

For anyone that has access to JSTOR, this is a great article about the Politics of Folk Music in the Balkans: The Politics of Folklore in Bulgaria, Carol Silverman